“Most travelers I know, they’re proud to be known as a traveler as opposed to a tourist: ‘I’m more thoughtful—I’m not just here to shop and get a selfie. I’m here to immerse myself in the culture and learn.’ That is a traveler, to become a temporary local. A traveler learns about the world, but I think a pilgrim learns about themselves, and you learn about yourself by leaving your home and looking at it from a distance.” —Rick Steves
When I told a friend that I was going to India and Nepal, she was both happy for me and freaked out, her reaction going something like, “How exciting. How terrifying.” It was, she explained, way out of her comfort zone.
Mine as well, although I’ve done some challenging travel before. There was the time I rode a couple of days across Mexico by myself on a bus that had a pulsating bust of Jesus on the dashboard. But I was younger then. Now at 74, I’m heading off with my friend Sarashri Bicknell, 66, a member of the Triratna Buddhist community, on a tour that follows the path of the Enlightened One. I’ve always been drawn to Buddhism and here is a chance to do a deep dive. In more ways than one.
Sarashri, Sara for short, has been to India twice, so I’m glad she’s no rookie. “It’s exciting,” she says. “There’s something different happening around every corner.”
Steve Minor, 69, agrees. Also a member of the Triratna community, he took a similar tour last year and notes that it’s a near constant sensory experience. “India is a dynamic and roiling country and there will always be surprises,” he says. “Once I saw a monk walking down the road totally naked wearing flip flops and talking on a cell phone.” His tour guide explained that there’s a sect of Jainism where the holy men go about “sky clad,” that is, naked.
As it is for Bicknell, Minor’s trip was a pilgrimage of a lifetime. “I wanted to see the places of Buddha’s origins, northern India, and Nepal where he was born. And being older, I knew there’s a limit on what I can do in the future, so this was the time to be in a really different environment. I also wanted to be protected so I took a tour.”
Our tour guide is India-born and world traveler Akshaydeep, a 42-year-old living in Cambridge, England, where he runs his company, Joy Tours. A Triratna member, he revels in introducing visitors to the wonders of his country and religion. That’s reassuring, but we must also consider the little matter of physical needs. “There were squat toilets everywhere,” Minor tells me. “That was a first for me.”
To that end, Bicknell and I embarked on a program of strength exercises and squat dips because, of course, the consequences of weakness are too terrible to contemplate. We also purchased excellent travel insurance, paying special attention to emergency medical care including evacuation. We spent fistfuls of cash at a travel clinic, getting vaccines and treatments for various illnesses including typhoid, malaria, and intestinal issues. After much handwringing, we opened a financial vein for the huge expense of rabies protection, a series of two shots.
How, though, do I prepare for the realities that await? We’ll travel by train at times, which Minor says reveals the divisions of caste up close. “Trains can be cramped, and some have deluxe swivel chairs, but then there are the cattle cars full of people.” He also advises not giving money to outstretched hands. “It’s heartbreaking but if you give, there’s a price to pay.” Thankfully, there are visits to organizations dedicated to the poor where donations can be made. And finally, be vigilant with food and water. “The guide helps,” says Minor, “and listen for the snap when opening bottled water so you know the seal is intact.”
Tour guide Akshaydeep offers his perspective: “India is diverse. It includes a growing middle class, an educated sector, and a significant number of wealthy individuals,” acknowledging that India can be a cultural shock for many Westerners. “It’s bustling and lively, streets are often noisy, and yes, you may encounter poverty and dusty streets. But India is also a beautiful country steeped in history, art, and vibrant spirituality. The warmth and hospitality of the people are remarkable, and they are welcoming to tourists.” He encourages an open mind. “Embrace the new culture, enjoy the delicious Indian cuisine, and connect with people. At the same time, it’s important to stay mindful. Safeguard your belongings, trust your instincts, listen to your tour manager and local friends, and you’ll likely have a fantastic experience.”
Perhaps that will include something that cannot be planned, defined, or even imagined—an encounter with the ancient spirit of Buddhism. “Going to the places where he lived, taught, and died, there is always a possibility of connecting with that,” says Bicknell. “You see people from all over the world having the same experience and that creates an energy. There is no shared language but there is a shared humanity.”
Bicknell and I are leaving comfortable routines for the unknown, not unlike the originator of Buddhism centuries ago. “This is where Prince Siddhartha, living in luxury, sought to understand suffering and ultimately discovered a path to happiness,” says Akshaydeep. “Through this pilgrimage, you’ll explore over 2,500 years of Buddhist history in India. You, too, can embark on your own transformative spiritual journey.”
So, with lofty goals and thighs of steel, I think we’re ready.
Connie McDougall is a former news reporter and current freelance writer of nonfiction and personal essays. A lifelong student and proud English major, she has pursued lessons in flying, scuba diving, tai chi, Spanish, meditation, hiking, and Zumba.
If You Go
I’ve discovered, later in life, that travel has gone mostly paperless—online transactions, QR codes and apps are used for a variety of purposes. For instance, I reserved a ride from the Istanbul Airport to my hotel with an app called Welcome Pickups and communicate with the driver via WhatsApp. I’ve chatted with a fellow at an Indian hotel via app and email. It’s pretty much unavoidable so I had to bite the bullet and drag myself into the 21st Century.
Another tip: Pepper your well-traveled friends with questions. I did and it helped relieve anxiety as well as allowed me to absorb their wise and experienced advice. Like these ideas: Don’t forget Vitamin I (Imodium) and always take a hotel business card when out and about in case you get lost. Then, just hand it to a taxi driver for a ride home.